We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal. While Raboutou was willing to comment on Alphane, he wasn’t ready to disclose what else he’s done that we should know about. According to Bosi, Terranova has “some of the worst crimps and pinches [he’s] used,” which says a lot for someone who repeated both Burden of Dreams V17 and Alphane V17. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoChris Sharma working on the first ascent of First Round, First Minute. ”. Another Link Cam failure, climber hit the deck. He has graduate degrees in chemistry and physics and is currently. They're effectively a Free-to-Play option. In 2022 alone, Bosi climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. The block is located in Lappnor, Finland, and was established by Nalle Hukkataival after three years and over 4,000 attempts – an incredible demonstration of persistence and willpower. According to the French climbing magazine Grimper, Charles Albert, a French climber known for hard barefoot ascents, has made the first ascent of a Fontainebleau problem and proposed 9a/V17 for the grade. " - Climbing MagazineHe was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up numerous V16 first ascents, including the U. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Low. Nick Brown UKC. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. After he announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. Video de Laura Rogora encadenando Erebor 9b/+ en Arco 09/10/2021. “Usually, when I go out with fellow guides or. com. In October, Bosi repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Will Bosi Claims Third Ascent of 'Alphane' (V17), Evades Grade Question. Although only Raboutou managed to finish the line, all three felt V17 was likely accurate. Matt Fultz has made the second ascent of the stunning Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+/V16) in Brione, Switzerland. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of "Alphane," a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. And yes we are scared of falling. Roberts, 24, has accumulated an impressive list of hard bouldering ticks. After Alphane V17, he sent Megatron V17, in Coloardo’s Eldorado Canyon. This year, Shawn Raboutou established Alphane and Megatron and graded them both V17 – read more about them here. He was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up several V16 first ascents, including the U. Earlier this month, he made the coveted second ascent of Burden of. He's the son of Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou and brother to Brooke Raboutou. 15’s) resumes of any climber. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. . On Aug. EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic. Kinda makes sense as a process, actually, and is likely more effective than bludgeoning the climb for 4 months straight. BranYip • 10 mo. Adam Ondra is the only one to climb 2 grades harder (or Will Bosi as well if king capella gets. 2. K. In 2021, Daniel Woods made the first ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker and graded it V17 – watch his send here. Only three V17 problems. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the. News. After getting some beta from Shawn Raboutou, Ghisolfi jumps on Alphane V17, Raboutou’s first ascent from earlier this year. Around 2 p. Alphane was “quite a long process,” Lorenzi told Climbing. Footage of Bosi’s send of Dreamtime. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. Sometimes it's very focussed on climbing, sometimes climbing barely comes up. Raboutou has had an incredible year, also making the first ascent of Alphane in Switzerland. which has sp. 3/30/10 - The Bishop Bouldering Blog has reported that Paul Robinson sent his long-time project at the Buttermilks in Bishop this morning. According to the French climbing magazine Grimper, Charles Albert, a French climber known for hard barefoot ascents, has made the first ascent of a Fontainebleau problem and proposed 9a/V17 for the grade. Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A. Directed by Long Truong and Julie Ellison, Girls. . Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. William Bosi. 190 in) = 109 lb per inch of penetration ". Jimmy Chin, renowned climber, skier, mountaineer, and photographer, describes his admiration for the diverse landscapes of Grand Teton National Park. Raboutou, 24, recently posted about making the first ascent of Alphane (V17), in Chironico, Switzerland, confirming that he has indeed climbed one of the world’s hardest bouldering grades. Yet. 1M+ downloads. Aidan Roberts – Alphane (V17) 2nd ascent and Burden of Dreams strategies. "Before that, Aidan Roberts and he both took a similar approach to repeat Alphane (V17/9A). . Check out this exclusive interview with the man with the strongest fingers in the business! Nice one Will!He believes the grade is lower-end V16, harder than his recent send of Forgotten Gem V15 but easier than Honey Badger V16 or Alphane V17. Shawn Raboutou is the only boulderer in the world right now with 2 9A/V17 ascents under his belt. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Subscribe. American climber Shawn Raboutou made a historic first ascent of Alphane (V17), in Chironico, Switzerland, back in April. New V17’s have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. It's not that some hard climb is a v17 or isn't. Join to Unlock. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Will Bosi and Aidan have both previously climbed Font 8C+ but Aidan's repeat of Alphane is. Remember when Aidan sent Alphane and became the second person to send this infamous V17? Tom Randall managed to sit down with Aidan Roberts fresh off Alphane (9A/V17) to find out more about what went into this historic send! This proves to be a rather inspirational. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. Becoming the first 9A/V17 in Switzerland and only the third in the world, Alphane is the latest and greatest example of Rabatou's talents, clearing defining him as one of the very best bouldererA 70m is enough with the stretch. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. In a normal climbing session you’ll only need to desperately yank yourself back into place on your hardest projects of the day, while the rest of your session is more controlled. Hestal. Second of all, if rappelling, knot the ends of your rope. It took him practically 4 years to ship the issue and it has but […]Looking to build a freestanding hangboard stand with a bunch of 2x4's i have laying around. 15b, and put up two 5. The North Face presents: ALPHANE. In a bouldering video released last August, local pro climber, Shawn Raboutou, is featured making the first ascent of Alphane (V17), one of the world’s hardest problems. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. Oh No moments from the popular history animation series from Oversimplified. I would think somewhat intuitively, if you're on a strength training hangboard routine and work up to v10 finger strength* from v5, then probably as a byproduct you'd bump up your route grade from 5. The idea of a V17 seemed almost unfathomable at the time. Shawn Raboutou is absolutely on fire right now. Like, finding a crimp line that goes at V17 is ridiculous, because a couple degrees of overhang or literal fractions of a millimeter of extra pad space makes or breaks the whole line. 15b) in Margalef, Spain, on the last day of 2015. Shawn aime bien faire sa petite affaire sans avoir à poster ses réalisations sur Instagram. He established Soudain Seul V17 in Fontainebleau in 2021 and then repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17 in 2022. He’s named the line, which is located on the back side of the graffiti-covered Rocher Brûlé boulder, No Kpote Only. Earlier this month, Bosi threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the route’s first. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. Download the app . The interesting thing about Shawn is that there are consistently rumors of him sending hard boulders without posting about it or telling social media. Sean Bailey has climbed multiple V15 and V16 boulder problems including Box Therapy V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park and The Grand. Different experience working these types of problems. On February 26, 63-year-old Ken Nichols made his 10,000th ascent of the traditional route Dol Guldur (5. It took Coley three years of effort over 26 sessions to send the problem. This route might well have the best claim to V17 of recent proposals. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Aidan Roberts. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. 15d), and Alphane (V17). The rig joins the ranks aside Nalle. The problem links a V15 start into the V14 Tron, a stand start version of the problem first put up by Woods in 2017. At the forefront of this movement are a group of elite athletes. Update August 22, 2022: In conjunction with The North Face, Mellow released the footage of Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi quickly retrod Raboutou’s tracks on “Alphane,” his last V17 FA — which he posted in August. In 2021, he made the first ascent of King Capella (9b/5. Earlier this year, American boulderer Shawn Raboutou spent the better part of his winter season in Switzerland. You can watch his and Bertone’s. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. Share your videos with friends, family, and the worldCheck out this great listen on Audible. com. He is one of only a handful of climbers to send 9b. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training Interview: How Ben Hanna Became the Athlete He Wanted to Be Bubble Wrap: Woods' FA of Gym ProblemAlphane (V17) 2nd Ascent - Is Burden of Dreams Next? | Lattice Newsletter, October 2022 Lattice Training sent this email to their subscribers on October 28, 2022 . Will has had his eyes on Alphane for some time, having shared videos on. ’s first two of the grade: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Sit. Other notable ascents are listed below. K. If The Big Island Assis is indeed V17, it will be only the second boulder in the world of the grade. Eastern time, Shawn Raboutou reported the first ascent of “Alphane,” V17, in Fionnay, Switzerland. All this said, ~7 weeks of effort is still probably the fastest ascent yet of a V17. Pictures and analysis included. She initially proposed V15 for this low variation but subsequent ascensionists moved the grade down to V14, which Bertone agreed with. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. A good coach is much more then just giving you drills and strength programs. So the simple session count is an imperfect measure of how much time/effort the boulder took, and how hard the boulder is. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17. Cody Townsend and team visited Baffin Island in May to ski the epic line. com - Will Bosi has released a film that documents his send of Alphane V17, as well as ascents of Forgotten Gem V15 and Vecchio Flash V13. In 2022, Will made the third ascent of Alphane (V17/9A) in Switzerland. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. Back in October 2022, he spent a session working the moves of Alphane V17 with Shawn Raboutou. He also put up the U. Will Bosi’s has made the first ascent of Wild South V15 at Raven Tor in U. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoChris Sharma working on the first ascent of First Round, First Minute. Sean Bailey has climbed multiple V15 and V16 boulder problems including Box Therapy V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park and The Grand. Wedge Climbing has released a film depicting what Aidan Roberts’s calls “two rather contrasting days filled with big walks, epic views, classic grading confusion, hiding from the rain, a lazy pug and a bit of hard climbing” in the UK’s Lake District. Alpha Clones are Eve Online accounts that do not have a monthly subscription fee like Omega Accounts do. Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. “Apparently I need to start bouldering more,” she says. 11/1/10 - The Travel Channel has picked up groundbreaking documentary series "First Ascent" for U. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker and. EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing. . The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in. Two V17 climbers are in Finland projecting Burden of Dreams V17 (9A). Shawn Raboutou is the only boulderer in the world right now with 2 9A/V17 ascents under his belt. 18th November, 2022. That’s simply because the route has been known about and attempted for years. EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life. On the Careless Talk Climbing Podcast, which Roberts co-hosts with Sam Prior (and which I find delightful), Roberts has spoken about his progress on the Alphane Right project, which he considers harder than the V17 left exit, and the ultra-crimpy Midnight Project —but only on the podcast’s Patreon page have we really gotten a glimpse of. This week was a BIG one on the climbing world, as Alphane has been repeated!“Alphane” is the world's third V17/9A boulder problem, according to American boulderer Shawn Raboutou. It is now the second to have been repeated with Soudain Seul having had three ascents in total. don't know the actual year but that's the video that got Jorgeson's attention. One of the world’s most prolific downgraders, Nico Pelorson, has taken a break from projecting Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane (V17) to climb Guiliano Cameroni’s Squalo Bianco (V14) and Dave Graham’s elusive classic From Dirt Grows the Flowers (V15). Gripped December 16, 2022. . The 40-minute film showcases many Roberts hardest sends including Alphane 9A, Isles of Wonder Sit V16, and Vecchio Leone Sit V16. During my Swiss trip for the first RedBull Dual Ascent competition on the Verzasca dam, I had the opportunity to explore the astonishing bouldering area of C. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. On March 30, Daniel Woods topped out a new sit start to Sleepwalker (V16) in Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada. Roberts has been on a tear over the past year, with a repeat of Alphane V17, the first ascent of Isles of Wonder SS V16 (below) and a recent first ascent of a V15 – read more about it here. The problem was put up last year by American climber Shawn Raboutou but it. Alphane is in a place where it makes sense for climbers to travel from all around to try, it’s in a style that fits with many of the world’s best boulderers, and it’s right next door for many many strong Euros; it makes sense that if any V17 was going to see a fast repeat, it would be Alphane. Everyone said the same thing about Dreamtime 22 years ago but it's still a benchmarkIn the first, we get some fun send footage from Bosi’s fall 2022 Swiss trip, in which he climbed Alphane (V17) and Forgotten Gem (V15), and flashed the ultra-classic Vecchio Leone (V13). Frencesco Berardino has repeated Off the Wagon V16, one of the most iconic lines in the world, at only 19 years old. The V17 / 9A bloc was first established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016 and has seen countless pros visit without a send – until now. In 2022 he established not one but two V17s, with the first ascents of Alphane and Megatron. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. Nick Brown UKC. The V-scale is the most widely used scale in North America. Last fall, he made the third ascent of Alphane (V17). ℗© 2023 Hestal. In the first, we get some fun send footage from Bosi’s fall 2022 Swiss trip, in which he climbed Alphane (V17) and Forgotten Gem (V15), and flashed the ultra-classic Vecchio Leone (V13). Raboutou himself disclosed nothing about the climb in the post — other than the name and. K. And yes we are scared of falling. As though this wouldn’t be enough to make it on the list, Shawn also made the first ascent of The Story of Three World’s V16, climbing it. [/quote] Given the access and Lorenzi's/Robert's apparent progress, my money is on Alphane being repeated before. Bosi claimed the. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). Shawn on Megatron V17 – Photo from Shawn Raboutou’s Instagram. Dans la vidéo mise-en-line il y a deux. ’. In 2022 alone, Bosi has climbed ten V14’s, eleven V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. . The V17 / 9A bloc was first established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016 and has seen countless pros visit without a send – until now. a the Island Sit Start—a V16 or V17 in Fontainebleau, has done the fourth ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane, saying that the two problems feel similar in difficulty. This seventeen-move masterpiece had been a futuristic project for several top climbers for quite a while until young crusher Shawn Raboutou made the first ascent in 2022. There are about five V17s established in the world, with most of them awaiting second ascents and grade confirmations. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). In late 2022, Simon Lorenzi made the fourth ascent of Alphane V17 in Fionnay, Switzerland. Alphane, V17 Alphane is located in Ticino, Switzerland and was originally climbed by American Shawn Raboutou in August 2022. Aidan Roberts and Sam Prior host this climbing-themed podcast that kind of goes where it goes. 15d (9c) by Alex Megos, Ghisolfi downgraded Bibliographie to 5. You can watch his FA of Unison V15 below. Since his 2018 ascent of Off the Wagon SDS Shawn has continued to cement his reputation by establishing many hard problems at 8C+ and above, including Big Z, Fuck the System and The Story. Or maybe it is just that Alphane offers more days of reliable conditions, vs. It’s a powerful problem on a big boulder at the edge of a field in Val Bavona, Switzerland. Last month the British climber Will Bosi joined an elite club that includes just Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert, and now himself—he is the sixth person ever to climb 9b+ [5. 726K views 1 year ago. Other notable ascents are listed. In fact, Lorenzi suggested that The Big Island is no harder than The Island, calling both V14. For example if alphane was easier than burden, then it's a decision to be made if both are v17, or are they v16&17 or v17&18. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. The second video, Bosi and his coach, Lattice founder Tom Randall, sit down to chat about Will Bosi’s training development and present tactics. Discover something new every day from News, Sports, Finance, Entertainment and more!455 votes, 52 comments. 323. You can watch the full climb no. Their eyes were fixed on a recently climbed. On April 6, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Alphane ‘. There are levels that are lower/easier. Video of Simon Lorenzi Sending Alphane V17 Just Dropped Gripped November 17, 2023. Up to 10% OFF climbing training gear with code FOCUS10 at the EpicTV Shop: the CAMP competition: this we. El joven escalador norteamericano Shawn Raboutou estableció el cuarto 9a de boulder, realizando la primera. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17. . S. 15d), DNA (5. Climb list:Grape Ape 8A+ (v12) FARagot FM 8A (. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. Some climbers like to focus on “building their pyramid. What an incredible journey! Thanks a lot for the support 🙏🏼 I’ll comment more soon 😁. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. Yet. Except Bosi didn’t actually go visit Finland (that land of fickle weather) until this week. After repelling numerous suitors since Hukkataival’s FA in October 2016—including Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Aidan Roberts, Giuliano Cameroni, and Toru. Today on Instagram, he finally put those rumours to bed with his announcement of his first ascent of the longstanding Megatron project in Colorado’s. His success on the project has been a badly kept secret in the climbing world and rumours were circulating as soon as he reported his. Instead, he worked the climb at Lattice Training’s. But Bosi was reluctant to affirm the difficulty. . 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Connect With Us Home » Climbing » With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat The world’s third V17 boulder downside now has a second graduate, with the…Girls Gone Hueco is an exciting new bouldering film from climber and producer Midori Buechli. Last month the British climber Will Bosi joined an elite club that includes just Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert, and now himself—he is the sixth person ever to climb 9b+ [5. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. Aidan Roberts and Shawn Raboutou are two of the best climbers who have managed to climb one of the hardest boulders in the world, Alphane V17. New V17’s have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Will Bosi Claims Third Ascent of 'Alphane' (V17), Evades Grade Question. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Will previously climbed Shawn’s Alphane (9A/V17) in Chironico, Switzerland in November 2022. There is a stepdown of about 1. In 2021, Daniel Woods made the first ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker and graded it V17 – watch his send here. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Other career highlights include: multiple 9a+/9a ascents, V14 flash, multiple V15 ascents, 3 x IFSC. Países. IMO this is NOT an indication of the grade as there's so few V17's and even V16's for choose from that it shouldn't be ridiculous that when a more approachable line is put up (approach, conditions, hold quality etc. 1M+ downloads. Often i think reframing, meaning helping the climber understand why they are doing something or feel a certain way. Stephano Ghisolfi Tries Alphane V17 In new video, Ghisolfi meets up with Shawn Raboutou to attempt the moves on one of the hardest problems in the world. 6" - 40mm - deep 3 finger pocket. Shawn sent Alphane in April 2022 (but didn’t announce it until August 2022) after 25 sessions spanning over a few months. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Born into a family of climbers, Shawn has been honing his skills since he was a kid, making him one of the best boulderers in the world currently with two V17s up his sleeve. The withdrawal force per inch of penetration can be estimated as F = 2850 (0. Ghisolfi makes progress on individual. Rumors have been circulating for months that American climber Shawn Raboutou has completed two eye-popping boulder projects. So the simple session count is an imperfect measure of how much time/effort the boulder took, and how hard the boulder is. Shawn's ascent of Alphane is the first proposed 9a in Switz. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line. Natalie Berry UKC. . After his recent success in Switzerland on Alphane (V17/9A), Aidan Roberts has not wasted any time in getting to work on his next challenge. Both problems have only one ascent. Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Aidan Roberts. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. Natalie Berry UKC. The latter took him. Only three V17 problems. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoOwen Clarke. The line is to the left of Alphane Moon 8A. Ghisolfi is one of the world’s best sport climbers. Will adds Burden of Dreams to a long list of hard repeats and first ascents, including Alphane 9A , Honey Badger 8C+ (FA, UKC News) and a 9b+ sport first ascent, King Capella . It was the culmination of a three month journey. Climbing was a natural calling for both kids from their toddler years. He returned to free the route in 1979—after the first free ascent by Mike Heintz and Tony Trocchi in 1976. Alphane V17 (9A) (Shaw Raboutou doing the FA, and the Mellow crew) Sessions: Kingdom Wall (Aidan doing the FA of a V15/8C) Aidan Roberts Crushing in Colorado. The world's third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphane—and Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosi’s training history. His most noteworthy ascents, however, have to be Megatron and Alphane, both of which are V17 boulders. British climber, Will Bosi, continues his jaw-dropping year of hard bouldering sends with his ascent of Ephyra V16. Shawn Raboutou has been taking the climbing world by storm in recent years, defying gravity with his superhuman strength. instead of projecting Alphane or Megatron, then it seems pretty likely he would have a similar “résumé. DWoods has one of the most impressive bouldering (multiple V17’s), comp (multiple world cups wins), and sport climbing (multiple hard 5. New V17’s have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5. : r/climbing. This afternoon, Raboutou. EP 142: Aidan Roberts. Hoping around 6' tall. This article originally appeared on Climbing. With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat. First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival, October 2016. Nichols made the first ascent on aid in September 1975. 6 sessions in Alphane might be the same number of quality tries as 10 in Burden (hypothetical numbers). Across various trips to the country, he’s repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17 and put up numerous V16 first ascents including Everything the Light Touches, Vecchio Leone Low, and The Lions Share. Photo by Patty Kline. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space. The subtly textured block was established by Aidan Roberts in November 2022 (the same trip where he did the second ascent of Alphane [V17]), after he flashed the stand-start version Vecchio Leone (V13) that March. 1. Alphane is the third or fourth V17 in the world depending on who you ask (Soudain Seul technically holds the position but the grade is debated). People have to come into agreement on how much harder v17 should be in comparison to v16. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder development. British climber Will Bosi has made the second repeat of Alphane (f9A), proposed to be the world's fourth Font 9A boulder. Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. 11, Reservoir Wall) 870 upvotes · 77 comments. What an incredible journey! Thanks a lot for the support 🙏🏼 I’ll comment more soon 😁. Shawn and Brooke Raboutou grew up in a family of world-champion climbers with their mother, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, and father, Didier Raboutou, setting a high bar indeed. converted to rounded metric with description in case any other non UK person is interested: (#1) - 1. When asked about it, he simply replied, “I have another cool video coming out soon. Field Tested: Metolius Anchor ‘Draws, the “Dad Draws” to End all Dad Draws. On February 26, 63-year-old Ken Nichols made his 10,000th ascent of the traditional route Dol Guldur (5. K. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of "Alphane," a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. The 40-minute film showcases many Roberts hardest sends including Alphane 9A, Isles of Wonder Sit V16, and Vecchio Leone Sit V16. The home of Climbing on reddit. Last Friday, he finally posted about making the first. Having announced two V17 FAs in the span of three months, Shawn cemented his position as the world’s top boulderer. Shawn Raboutou has belatedly announced an ascent of Alphane in Chironico last year and proposed the grade of 9A. A post shared by Aidan Roberts (@aidan. It has since seen two repeats , one by Aidan Roberts , who got the first repeat later in the year in October and then by Scot Will Bosi in November of the same year. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. On Wednesday, April 12, Will Bosi claimed the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dream, V17, calling it a huge step up from any other problem he’s done. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17. There's also a difference between the longer power endurance style of ROTSW and Alphane, versus the 4 move power sequence of Burden. k. Steven Potter Published Jun 5, 2023. 8" - 20 mm shallow 3 finger pocket. Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser). Since the pandemic, he’s made the transition from World Cups to outdoor climbing, and has systematically been sending some of the world’s. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. The world's third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland broke her own Speed world record with a time of 6. ’s famed Lake District. If “Alphane” and “Megatron” are both confirmed at V17, Shawn would be the first person to have sent two V17 / 9A routes. Will has confirmed the grade at 9A/V17. His success on the project has been a badly kept secret in the climbing world and rumours were circulating as soon as he reported his other 9A, Alphane. If “Alphane” and “Megatron” are both confirmed at V17, Shawn would be the first person to have sent two V17 / 9A routes. Earlier this month, Bosi threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. . 11)Share your videos with friends, family, and the worldHe’s had an immense amount of success in Switzerland in particular. Pictures and analysis included. For a 3-4 move V17, those guys might have to spend months before they even do each move individually. It was the last time anyone has climbed the hard problem, and a new film featuring Lorenzi’s send was just released by. Instead, he FAd Alphane Moon (V11). Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons. Have a question about what color carabiner speaks to your soul? Want to talk some smack about pebble wrestlers? Wondering how chalk buckets work?Noah Walker May 18, 2022. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where Shawn Raboutou has announced his new mind-boggling difficult Font 9A: Megatron. Raboutou claimed the first ascent of “Megatron,” V17, his most recent mega-hard Colorado project. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. As previously mentioned, Burden of Dreams is the groundbreaking climb that made V17 bouldering a reality. nu’s world boulderer rankings. Shawn Raboutou is an extremely strong boulderer from the USA. "In total he spent 24 days working the problem and this is the longest Bosi has spent on a single boulder problem - by comparison, Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland took 12. Posted by u/WhatTheHorcrux - 169 votes and 46 commentsalphane. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the route’s first repeat in. Nichols made the first ascent on aid in September 1975. Alphane (V17) Alphane is a testament to Graham’s vision and perseverance. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an ‘amazing experience. A long-standing project in Colorado finally gets done, becoming one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style. It’s OK to Love Yourself If You Don’t Climb 5. The World’s Current Hardest Boulder Problem. Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. K. Like, finding a crimp line that goes at V17 is ridiculous, because a couple degrees of overhang or literal fractions of a millimeter of extra pad space makes or breaks the whole line. On Wednesday, April 12, Will Bosi claimed the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dream, V17, calling it a huge step up from any other problem. roberts98) Serendipity V14 Repeat. The V17 climber puts down one of his oldest projects. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. Esucha EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style y 247 más episodios de The Nugget Climbing Podcast, gratis! No es necesario registrarse ni instalar. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. Russian climber Vadim Timonov has done the first ascent of Backflip Sit,. Another Link Cam failure, climber hit the deck. 15b). – Aidan Roberts Climbing Alphane, V17 in the Scarpa Instinct Lace – Nathaniel Coleman taking Olympic Silver with his Scarpa Dragos – Alex Puccio sending The Penrose Step (V14), as well as 3 other boulders of the same grade, in the Scarpa Instinct VSR. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in Spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17,. Dreamtime V15. K, and opened and repeated a bunch of V15’s.